Below is the vapor barrier of 4 mil plastic that will act as the vapor barrier between the floor and the floor framing. I just rolled it out and stapled it from front corner to back corner, being careful to pull the plastic taut at each bay. It was kind of a pain, but just time wise. Pretty easy, all things considered. Also I added another 1″ of expanded polystyrene and used a hacksaw to cut this time. Made things infinitely easier. You sacrifice a bit of R value with the polystyrene but it has a plastic/foil layer to deflect moisture, and its way easier to push into corners as it is a bit softer and doesn’t snap if it bends. It’s all a matter of how nice and square your framing is (mine wasn’t since I used some reused boards and some new) and how good you are at cutting straight lines 8 feet long with a hacksaw/utility knife.
Before I put the vapor barrier on, I bolted more bolts through the framing into the trailer. This is the way to do it. Even though the trailer had 10 or so 3/8″ diameter holes around the outside and some down the middle, these 1/2″ galvanized bolts are way beefier and better. If I were to do this again, I’d just go ahead and skip using the holes as they are (3/8″), I’d buy a 12″ long 1/2″ diameter drill bit that can handle drilling through steel, and just make those holes a bit bigger and sink these bigger, badder-ass bolts through. I feel OK though, I have about 20 bolts in all, around the outside, about 2 feet in on each side and then up the middle. Be sure to measure and account for everything involved. As you can see below, I didnt give myself much of a thread to work with, so I sunk the bolts into the wood a bit. Once you get the ratchet on there, though, you can just crank em in.
I spent about 2.5 days straight doing the flooring. Things I learned: use plywood no matter what, first. Make sure if you use rough cut wood that you make your first laid board is your best 100% straight board and work everything to meet it. Errors compound. Use little slices of wood to fill out long cracks, and it can look OK. Things I gained more skill in: using a circular saw to cut 1/2″ wide 12 foot long pieces of hemlock!!!!!!!
So the floor is on. It’s rough cut hemlock, and it looks like the floor of a barn (I hope). There are some pretty obvious “patches” where I had to fill in between cracks with slices of wood and I learned from it (and hopefully someone else out there will, too). This is the first carpenter/lumber part that I did 100% solo. It can get pretty frustrating.
Walls next, perhaps this weekend?
Finally got the insulation in, with much help from Chris. That stuff sucks. I got two different types because there were only 3 sheets left of the white polystyrene stuff, so I got some blue as well. It is a pain to cut, especially since none of the bays were 16″ wide (the blue “scoreboard” insulation is pre-scored at 16″ and 24″). It’s also what I saw most of the other folks using, so I went with it. I did read yesterday that fiberglass insulation is a haven for mice, so I might want to avoid that in my walls. I dont need mice. Spray foam is wicked expensive, and would be a pain, really.
After we got the insulation cut and stuffed in, we sealed the cracks with sprayfoam insulation. I didnt buy enough though, so I’ll finish that today:
Then, with the rest of the afternoon we got the sucker bolted down. Note to self: check the diameter of the holes in the trailer before buying your bit. I bought a bit that was 1/8″ too big, so Chris and I had to mark out two holes, slide the whole foundation, drill em, make sure the bolt fit, then mark the rest, then move, then drill, then bolt, repeat. This was one of those pieces of working on the house where you dont get a lot done, visibly, but it’s out of the way, thank god.
With the help of Kristen’s dad, we redesigned the house a bit. We’ll be putting the sliding door/stationary windows together over the wheel well, and that will be where the kitchen table lives. We’ll be putting other windows on the left and right of the slider windows and we may or may not put a slider window on the east wall (the right wall in the image). We may just move the door to the middle and have windows on either side. It would be nice to move that slider on the right wall out of there so that wood stacking is a possibility in the winter, but the wood may even be too close to the wood stove. We’ll have to see once the space is actually physically existing. There will be windows on the north side, too, over the kitchen counter. The darker brown blocks are where the lofts will be. The loft for sleeping will be about 8×8 and the storage loft over the wood stove will be something like 8×2 or so. We thought the door should open out in this design, since, if it opened in, it necessitates that radius of space to open, which could get annoying. There will likely be more shelving too. Clothing storage will be a creative activity.
We also decided that a shed style roof (one that slopes from high to low from the south wall down to the north wall) would be better than a gable roof. The plans I have have those measurements all laid out for a shed roof, and it’s legal for clearance etc. under bridges. It would also reduce the cuts on the tin roofing that Kristen’s dad is giving us, which apparently is loud, full of shrapnel, and unpleasant.
I want to put a little porch roof over the door, either way (that is, either way that it opens), for snow and rain, and to put things out there to dry, and stuff. That is a minor detail. Cross that bridge when we come to it.
I corrected the floor layout to coincide with the cross ribs on the trailer. The joists are never wider than about 20 or so inches, which should be OK since some folks frame 24″ OC. Any thoughts on this? It appears there should be more framing under things like the shower in other people’s plans.
Filed under Floor, Framing